What does "pasture raised" mean? Nothing. Go look at the damn hens with your own eyes.

What does "pasture raised" mean? Nothing. Go look at the damn hens with your own eyes.

It means whatever the person printing the carton wants it to mean.

That is not cynicism. Cage free has a federal definition. Organic has a federal definition. Pasture raised does not. There is no USDA standard behind it, which means there is no floor under it, which means anyone can print it on anything.

It goes further than definitions. For cage free eggs carrying the USDA shield, graders visit the farms to verify the flock, and every label bearing that shield has to be approved before it can be printed. Pasture raised gets none of that. No definition, no farm visit, no approval.

So the phrase is doing no work. Including on my carton, where it also appears.

What is underneath it is the only thing that was ever real. Here is how to find that.

The ladder

Every one of these numbers is published by the people using it.

2 square feet per bird. That is what one of the largest free range brands in the country says is enough to legally call eggs free range. Their words, on their own website. They could give each hen two square feet and still qualify.

21.8 square feet per bird. That is the standard they actually hold themselves to, and they are right that it is better. They put it at roughly 8 acres per 20,000 birds.

108 square feet per bird. That is the pasture raised tier, from the same company. Fifty acres per 20,000 birds, a separate carton, a separate price — and a number lifted from the 1936 French standard for Poulet de Bresse, where ten square meters per bird was written into law to protect the flavor of one breed from one region.

236 square feet per bird. That is us. Fewer than 2,400 hens on twelve acres.

Run it the other way and it lands harder. At that free range density, our twelve acres would hold around 24,000 hens. We run 2,400.

Same words on all four rungs, and a hundredfold between the bottom and the top.

Why the term stays undefined

Because it is more useful that way.

The shelf you are standing in front of looks like six companies competing. Often it is one company's product mix. Cal-Maine is the largest shell egg producer in the country, and in its annual report to the SEC it lists cage free, organic, brown, free range, pasture raised and nutritionally enhanced together as specialty eggs, classified that way for accounting and reporting purposes. 

They have a name for the whole range. In their own press release they call it the full egg value ladder.

Those are not rival philosophies. They are price points. And a word with no definition is a far better tool for building price points than a word with one.

Pasture raised eggs in cartons, Wishbone Heritage Farms, Saint George SC

Fresh eggs from fewer than 2,400 hens on twelve acres in Saint George. Order for Pickup on Thursday or Saturday, or have Farmer David deliver to you.

The number that actually tells you something

There is a code on the carton starting with P, usually next to the three digit Julian calendar pack date stamped on the side. That is the processing plant that washed, graded, and boxed those eggs.

Compare the premium carton to the store brand sitting beside it. Same P code means the same processing line.

It is the one verifiable thing printed on any of them.

Then go look

Density cannot be verified from a dairy aisle. Neither can anything else that matters. So ask, and see whether you get an answer.

How many birds? On how many acres? How often are they moved? What is in the feed? Were the hens raised there from chicks or delivered as pullets ready to lay? What happens to an egg that is laid on the ground?

Then ask the only question that tests all of it at once: Can I come see?

That is where most of this ends. You can compare cartons all afternoon and you will never be able to check the number on the label that made you pick one. Most of these farms you can never step foot on. Not because anything is being hidden, necessarily, but because a facility running 20,000 birds under contract is not set up for you to walk through it, and the brand on the carton does not own the ground anyway.

Our farm is at 1070 W Raysor Street in Saint George, SC 29477. The hens are out there right now. Come look at them or look at the current satellite image for clear evidence of rotation.